A CRITICAL REVIEW OF EVOLVING AND CHANGING TRENDS OF PHULKARI ART OF PUNJAB

Abstract

Traditional handicrafts of the rural India have become a center of attraction of art and craft appreciators. Punjab is rich in traditional art and craft, among them, Phulkari embroidery has made a mark globally for its beauty and elegance. Phulkari was a traditional form of art, used to be practiced by the women of Punjab to embellish their personal apparels such as shawls, stoles etc. Phulkari always played an important role in the lives of Punjabi girls. It was more like a precious personal gift meant for special family occasions, such as welcoming a newborn into the family or a gift to the daughter during her nuptial ceremony. Traditional Phulkaris not only reflect the versatility, hard work and creativity of the rural women but they also represent the traditional culture of Punjab. Phulkari has been known for its vibrant colors and beautiful designs. In earlier times, Phulkari was created with flower motifs, geometrical patterns and flora and fauna motifs with detailed outlines. These animated motifs played a symbolic role. In contemporary Punjab, the authentic tradition of Phulkari started fading due to various socioeconomic factors. However, in the recent years, it has regained popularity in the commercial market, mainly through the transformation of technique and design after introducing several new items of popular taste. This new popularity is the result of the strength, beauty and artistry that is attracting buyers. The present study is a comprehensive analysis of the traditional Phulkari embroidery and its motifs and techniques. The thesis has been divided into six chapters. It gives the introduction of the study in respect of origin and history of Phulkari embroidery. The study examines the previous studies on the chosen area and sheds light on the traditional aspect of Phulkari embroidery and its tools, technique and material. It was only the women, who used to prepare material for embroidery and then create beautiful designs to wear it on various occasions. They made remarkable contribution in preparing the shawls of Phulkari in different forms. The traditional forms of Phulkari were unique and extraordinary because they were not associated with any commercial purpose unlike the current ones. This study gives in depth information about the creativity and imagination of women which have gone in creating the forms of geometrical motifs, flora and fauna, daily activities with human figures and daily useable things with the technique of embroidery. The research also provides a study on the revival of Phulkari embroidery through NGOs and GOs, social media, and fashion industry. The study assesses the role of entrepreneurs, product designers, fashion designers and interior designers in the revival II of Phulkari embroidery. Traditional craft of Phulkari embroidery shows tremendous growth and opportunity of employment and income generation to countless livelihoods through Self Help Groups. A qualitative survey of the case study of Patiala district of Punjab is also presented. The current trends, tools, technique and motifs of contemporary Phulkari embroidery have been evaluated. The socio-economic profile of the artisans involved in Phulkari embroidery is critically examined and the contemporary motifs, trends and technique, with special reference to the rural and urban area of Patiala is also discussed. The study also looks at the working condition of artisans keeping in the mind the increasing demand of Phulkari embroidery in international market. With the increasing demand of market women are working under some agents and owners who are not providing sufficient money to the artisans for their hard work. The work sheds light on general health problem of embroiderers, the occupational hazards on their health and their working ability. It is finally concluded that the art of Phulkari has now come at a new level of sophistication, but is losing its originality. The major focus now lies in monetary return instead of conservation of traditional knowledge. However, the commercial Phulkari has provided livelihood to many rural women and has contributed immensely in empowering rural women of Punjab.